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Born and raised in the suburbs of Paris, Vinnie Smalls likes to embark on solo travels performing absolutely zero research beforehand. He will tell you about seeing the most beautiful landscapes he has ever seen, and about enduring the scariest moments he has been through, after purposefully walking into areas that police have explicitly told him to avoid. From Canada, heading south through to Mexico, going two hundred kilometers an hour on South American highways with no seatbelt and a drunk driver, he will bring you weekly stories of train yards, prostitutes, food poisoning, the Milky Way, gang members, but first and foremost, humanity.
I get to El Salvador early in the morning. The border crossing from Honduras sets the mood. The money exchange guys knock on the window. In town they will only get 23 to 1, however in the comfortable safety of a gringo exchange office with an armed guard outside. I feel bad for the cash dude, as he is offering the best deal they will get but as they have heard so many horror stories about this place, they recoil at the sight of a local. I get out to stretch my legs and to take a leak. The bathroom is filled with gang graffiti.
I go back to get my camera and pay the cleaning lady for a second time, just to go back in and take some pics. I write my name next to an MS tag. The cops shake hands with the the money dudes. One of them breaks some big bills. We stop a few miles after at a gas station for a rest and some breakfast.
A guy walks past me with a shiny Desert Eagle tucked in the back of his pants. He sees me reach for my camera and puts his shirt over it. I resist the urge to go ask him for a photo shoot. He helpfully points out all the MS graffiti on the highway for me, slowing down so I can flick them. Whenever he sees a stray dog he mimes loading a gun and shooting it. His sound effects are pretty good. The rest of the van is absolutely quiet.
I get dropped off at a gas station on the outskirts of El Salvador, the driver hailing a taxi to get me to my hostel. Two gangs, MS , 18th Street. Kill on sight policy. I check into my room and go for a walk. My camera is in my backpack, with a new SD card.